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About Qilaishan Main & North Peak
The difficulty rating: ★★★⯪☆
Qilaishan (or Mt. Qilai 奇萊山) is the general name of several high mountains along its ridge (mainly the Main & North Peak) that almost every Taiwanese knows.
However, the reputation is not linked to its natural beauty but more from the accidents that took many young lives decades ago. According to the summary on Wikipedia, there were five shocking tragedies which resulted in 21 hikers in total killed or missing between 1971 and 1980, the reason that Qilaishan was nicknamed the “Black Qilai (黑色奇萊).”
The top causes of these accidents were severe weather, insufficient information and lack of shelters along the trail during that time. After decades of effort, the trails to Qilai Main Peak and North Peak have been well-maintained to a reasonable level, communication is possible on the ridge and a couple of cabins were built for hikers.
The hike to Qilaishan is no longer that adventurous but it is still challenging. In comparison with other “Qilai” series trails, Qilai Main & North Peak is the easiest one, but it is not for beginner. This trail is very exposed to adverse weather and heights (especially the steep climb to North Peak). Please read “Hiking Safety in Taiwan” on this website for more advice to stay safe.
The Trails of Qilaishan
Most of hikers start the hike from the trail head near Songsyue Lodge (松雪樓), above the Ski Lodge (滑雪山莊) and the trail head by it. Once you get to the ridge between Main Peak and North Peak, you can decide which peak you want to climb first. For hikers coming here for the first time, the return trips to Qilai Main Peak and North Peak can be difficult enough!
But for more experienced and well-prepared hikers, there are options for hiking beyond the North Peak to either Qilai East Ridge (奇萊東稜), or from Qilai North Face (奇萊北壁) to Pingfongshan (Mt. Pingfong 屏風山); or they may hike southward (Qilai Range 奇萊連峰) after visiting Qilai Main Peak, passing Kaluolou Cliff (or Mt. Kaluolou 卡羅樓斷崖) to reach Qilai South Peak (奇萊南峰) and finish the hike via the west section of Nenggao Cross-Ridge Trail (能高越嶺西段). No matter which route you choose, you need to get the hiking permits. Click the links (when available) above to see more photos from these hikes.
The Lessons I learned in Qilaishan
I have visited Qilai Main & North Peak several times but the first time, also my first multi-day hike, is always the most unforgettable one.
In April 2010, my partner and I joined a 3-day guided hike. The guide was a veteran and an amazing chef who prepared yummy dishes with simple gears in the mountains. On the second day we set off from Chenggong Cabin (成功山屋) before the dawn in the dark, being the first time to walk with a headlamp on steep terrain, I was nervous and tried to follow exactly each footstep of our guide as it seemed the only safe path from falling down.
The day was foggy and windy; so there is not much to see on both summits. After we descended to Chenggong Cabin where we camped on the day before, I was shocked that all my clothes including the fleece and thermal jacket were totally damp and so heavy. They were all soaked with the sweat because my waterproof jacket was not breathable at all (it should be wore by a scooter rider, not a hiker) and I certainly wore too many layers while moving on the ridge.
Having no dry cloth to change, I ended up shivering inside the sleeping bag for hours until a lady kindly offered me her spare jacket. This is a good first-hand lesson that I learned how the possible hypothermia could occur due to inexperience and a few minor mistakes.
In the following 12 years, I was back to the same or different routes for eight times; the view between Main Peak and North Peak are still the most impressive part among all Qilai trails to me.
If you are a solo hiker like me in recent years, you may like this trail because it is one of a few alpine trails in Taiwan that hikers can arrive the trail head by bus. The bus route, 6658A, can take you to Songsyue Lodge. Please check the timetable and make sure to book a seat from Nantou Bus (南投客運) in advance. Hitchhike is possible along the highway, my partner and I have done this successfully for a couple of times.
Hike Photos
Click to find the info of Xiaoqilai Trail
Many hotels there were built in an attempt to copy a kind of European atmosphere. I am not certain why those business owners think that can fit in the local culture and the landscape, but I guess that may fit more or less an admiration for foreign elements out of some Taiwanese’s mind.
Beyond the mosaic slopes stands Shouchengdashan (守城大山), and a corner of Puli (埔里), the most inland city in a basin; further away behind the mountains is the Taichung–Changhua metropolitan area (台中彰化都會區).
