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About Nenggao-Andongjun Trail
The Difficulty Rating: ★★★★★
Nenggao-Andongjun Trail (能高安東軍 or less commonly, North Section 3 北三段) is a dreamy route to many hikers in Taiwan; it is regarded as the most beautiful trail on the gorgeous alpine grassland of a highly elevated peneplain (最高隆起準平原) where several cute tarns dot on.
This trail is to the south of Qilai Range (奇萊連峰) and both trails share the western section of Nenggao Cross-Ridge Trail (能高越嶺), where hikers usually start for this trip.
From Tianchi (天池) the trail turns southward and then separates from Nenggao Cross-Ridge Trail shortly after the monument “Spread Light Across the Land (光被八表紀念碑)”. The trail carries on the southward direction along the ridge of Central Mountain Range until reaching Andongjunshan (安東軍山). From the trail junction of Andongjunshan, hikers descend from the main ridge and veer to Wandanan River (萬大南溪). You may notice that there is still a long way to go between Andongjunshan and the end of the trail at Aowanda National Forest Recreation Area (奧萬大國家森林遊樂區).
Hiking Safety
There are some safety aspects to consider while planning this hike (to know more, please read “Hiking Safety in Taiwan”):
This trail is not in any national parks and therefore a park permit is not required. But you sill need a mountain entry permit issued by police department (for Baishishan (白石山) and Andongjunshan).
If you plan to stay in Tianchi Lodge (天池山莊) or camp there, make sure you have secured a bed or campsite in advance.
Weather is the main concern for a trail of this length.
After Tianchi Lodge, this is no shelter along the trail to protect you from the elements. Hikers stranded and died on the ridge is not unheard of. In recent years it seems the hike along Wandanan River is very difficult that hikers must have a good level of navigation and route-finding skill to overcome many obstacles on the way. And be aware that river crossing is hazardous along this section, particularly during or after heavy rainfall.
My trip comments
In the summer of 2010, I joined my partner and three other OB members of her uni hiking club for this trip. This 7-day hike included a side trip to Mudanyan (牡丹岩), a legendary giant rock of Seediq people (賽德克族).
As a hiking novice during that time, my 20-kg backpack took a toll on my stamina. On top of that the harsh summer heat drained me badly from the second day even we traveled at the elevations above 3000 m. When all other people went to Mudanyan, I decided to rest by Mudan Pond (牡丹池), where we camped, to save my weak knees. Later my heel got a blister, a nasty pain on every step going uphill. On day 6 I run out of water; when we finally reached Wandanan River, I rushed to lay myself down on the bank, drinking water like a deer out of thirst.
In 2021 an article on BBC website cites my photo album of this trip, making it the most-visited album in my photography gallery. It is a surprise that I am very proud of. However, I could not agree what the article quotes that this trail can “get first-timers hooked on hiking.” Nenggao-Andongjun Trail is absolutely NOT for a hiking beginner, even you may hire the best guide and porter to assist you.
So many years have passed since this hike. A new trail head of Nenggao Cross-Ridge Trail and also the new Tianchi Lodge have replaced the old ones. All gears I used on that hike are gone. But I am still waiting for the second chance to be there, on the most beautiful grassy land in Taiwan.
Photos
The last leg of the hike was not very exciting and I did not take any more photos due to the pain. I think I should be able to do much better if I have a chance to hike on this trail again. Nenggao-Andongjun Trail is still on my bucket list in 2026.
